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What size pool table should I get?
How do I take care of my pool table?
My table doesn’t seem
to be level, what should I do?
How do I take care of my billiard cloth?
How do I take care of my cue sticks?
How do I move my pool table?
Can I save money by purchasing a used pool table?
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What size pool
table should I get?
You should purchase the largest table that your
room will accommodate. An 8’ table
is the most popular size for American homes followed
by 7’. You will normally find 8’ OS
(aka 8.5’) and 9’ tables in pool
halls. To
find out what size will fit in your room, you
can access this chart CLICK HERE after
measuring your room.
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How do I take care of my pool table?
As you enjoy your table, please remember that it
is not designed to be sat upon. While the
table is perfectly sturdy, the rubber cushions are
glued to the wooden rails, and even a slight “overhang” can
push them apart. This results in the “dead” sound
you hear on some table rails. While the cushions
can be re-glued, it is a time-consuming and somewhat
expensive proposition.
The leather pockets used on your table are manufactured
by skilled craftsmen from carefully selected leather. They
are designed to achieve the highest aesthetic value
possible; you should care for your pockets as you
would any fine leather. Handle them with care,
avoiding harsh treatments, which may cause scratches
or scuffs. Dust pockets regularly with a soft
dry cloth. Never drag your cue across the
top of the pocket! Keep them in a dry environment,
and avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight or intense
artificial light or the finish may fade and change
color over time. Ballpoint ink, carbon paper,
nail polish remover or other similar liquids can
cause permanent stains.
If your room size causes you to occasionally bump
the wall with your cue end, cue bumpers can be covered
with clear nail polish to eliminate scuffmarks on
the wall.
With just a little care, today’s family pleasure
becomes tomorrow’s family treasure!
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My table doesn’t seem to be level,
what should I do?
Many
billiard companies
offer an installation
warranty when
they deliver
your new pool
table purchase. For
your protection,
our installation is
covered by a
90-day warranty:
however, it is
most unusual
for there to
be any problems
after installation
as settling occurs while the
installation
is occurring. The
few problems
encountered are
usually the result
of an unlevel
floor under very
thick carpet. Over
use of talc or
powder can also
cause problems
due to accumulation
between the cloth
and the slate. Do
not attempt to
move the table
or you will disturb
the level and
will void your
installation
warranty. In
the event you
feel you have
a problem, notify
your billiard
company immediately,
but if the table
is settling to
an unlevel floor,
you should allow
several weeks
for the table
to finish settling.
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How
do I take care
of my billiard
cloth?
Billiard
cloth is a special
blend of wool
and nylon and
is extremely
durable. Due
to the heavy
nap on commercial
grade billiard
cloth, you may
initially notice
a slight ball “stagger” as
the ball comes
to a stop on
the table. This
does not mean
that your table
is unlevel! As
you vacuum and/or
brush the cloth,
you are removing
the excess nap
and the stagger
is virtually
eliminated. Keeping
a small square
of billiard cloth
in the pocket
will help in
quick “pick-ups” of
chalk marks after
playing. The
brushes, which
are available,
are either nylon
or a combination
of nylon and
horsehair. Although
all of them initially
lose bristles,
they are effective
in maintaining
the cloth, with
the more expensive
horsehair brush
requiring less “elbow
grease”.
You
must be aware
that masse’,
jump, or extreme “English” will
cause friction
spots on the
cloth from the
severe ball spin
occasioned by
these shots. These
shots can also
cause the tip
of the cue to
contact the cloth,
which will leave
wear spots. These
are normal but
can be mitigated
somewhat by wiping
lightly with
a damp rag.
Spills
can be removed
with clean cool
water and a soft
cloth or sponge. Wipe
with straight
strokes, using
as little moisture
as possible. Cleaners,
designed for
use on wools
or other upholstery,
are generally
very effective. Many
people choose
to use a very
light spray of
fabric protector
such as Scotchgard
when the cloth
is new, as this
gives additional
protection against
spills. However,
3M has determined
that, while a
little Scotchgard
is good, too
much will cause
the ball to “skid” on
the cloth.
The
best protection
(other than keeping
liquids and foods
away from the
table) is a table
cover! Whether
you choose a
plastic “throw” cover,
a fitted Naugahyde
cover or a custom
cover to convert
your table to
a dining table,
this is an item
that will save
wear and tear
on the cloth
and the table.
Small
tears or rips
can be repaired
in several ways. Trim
frayed edges
and place gummed
or iron-on tape
under the cloth
with adhesive
side up. The
lint, which collects
under the rail,
can be used with
a touch of glue
to fill in small
scuffmarks. Care
must be taken
not to leave
bulges in the
cloth, as they
will deflect
the ball.
The
length of time
before your cloth
needs replacing
will vary according
to the amount
of use and the
care you take
of it. Many
commercial rooms
replace their
cloth several
times a year,
but with good
care, you should
get several years
of use from your
new cloth. Replacing
torn or worn
cloth should
be done professionally
for best results,
but with good
manual dexterity,
some table owners
become fairly
proficient. We
offer a recovering
service not only
on the tables
we sell, but
also on tables
purchased elsewhere
and we appreciate
referrals. We
regret that we
cannot offer
this service
on non-slate
tables or tables
purchased from
department stores
or catalogs. We
do sell “recovering
kits” if
you choose to
do it yourself. Because
recovering the
rails is the
most difficult
part of the recovering,
we will also
recover just
the rails for
a minimal labor
charge if you
bring the rails
in and purchase
the cloth from
us.
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How
do I take care
of my cue sticks?
An
important part
of cloth care
is proper cue
care. Cues
should always
be stored in
the cue rack. It
is advisable
to protect them
from temperature
extremes, so
an inside wall
away from direct
heat, sunlight,
or air conditioning
is the best place
for the cue rack. The
tips should be
kept scuffed
so that they
will accept the
chalk (which
prevents mis-cues
which can tear
the cloth!). Under
no circumstances
should you play
with a cue that
has a worn, or
missing tip,
as this is the
main reason cloth
gets nicked or
torn.
The
easiest way to
replace tips
is to bring it
back to us; however,
with a little
time and patience
you can do it
yourself. Cue
repair kits are
available which
contain cue clamps,
sanders and shapers
to make the job
a little easier. To
replace a cue
tip, remove the
old tip and sand
the top of the
cue and the bottom
of the tip perfectly
flat and clean. Tips
come in a limited
range of sizes
(11mm to 14mm),
while shafts
come in a myriad
of sizes. The
tip should be
the same size
as your shaft
or a little larger,
which can be
trimmed to fit
the shaft after
the glue has
dried. The
final step is
to shape and
scuff the tip. Slip-on
tips are also
available for
a quick fix,
but since fit
is important
with slip-ons,
you need to know
the diameter
of your tip. If
the slip-on tips
are just a little
large, the cue
can be “shimmed” with
Scotch tape to
keep the tip
on tight. It
is not necessary
nor recommended
that they be
glued on.
Tip
chalk is the
medium that allows
the cue tip to “grab” and
direct the cue
ball. When
the cue tip becomes
so impacted with
chalk that you
begin to mis-cue,
the tips should
be scuffed up
to knock the
excess chalk
out of the tip
and raise the
leather fibres
so that they
can again accept
chalk. There
is no better
product for this
than the BRAD
cue scuffer. Cue
care products
for keeping the
tips scuffed
and the shafts
smooth are available. Shaft
conditioner,
micro pore papers,
suede leather,
waxes, and many
other products
keep your enjoyment
high and your
frustrations
low.
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How
do I move my
pool table?
We
do not advise that
pool tables be
moved by non-professionals. Most major table
repair work that
we perform is the
result of individuals
moving the table
themselves. With
the exception of
coin operated tables,
slate pool tables
must be disassembled
to be moved. While
the disassembly
is not difficult,
the reinstallation
is. Instead
of risking damage
to the table, your
back, or your walls,
we highly recommend
hiring a billiard
company to move
your pool table.
The
company that you
hire should have
extensive experience
in billiard maintenance. They
should also carry
insurance and run
background checks
on their employees. It’s
important that
the company you
hire is safe for
your home and family. While
there are lots
of “jobbers” that
do this kind of
work on the side,
rarely are they
insured.
If
it is your wish
to save money on
one portion of
the job, you can
disassemble the
table and move
it to its new location
on your own. To
do so, you will
first remove 3
bolts from each
rail and 2 bolts
from each pocket. After
the rails and pockets
are off, you will
carefully remove
the bed cloth which
is normally stapled
underneath to the
slate backing. If
your cloth does
not have any worn
areas or tears,
you will be able
to reuse it. The
slate is attached
to the frame using
12 to 18 slate
screws; depending
on the brand. Remove
them. Each
piece of slate
should be carried
separately. Leave
your table frame
assembled; it can
be moved in one
piece. Should
you need to disassemble
it to get it out
of a tight area;
you will incur
additional charges
to reassemble it. Make
sure that you keep
track of all hardware,
pockets, and parts
of your pool table. Not
having them when
it’s
time to reassemble
will incur not
only the charge
for replacement
parts, but also
charges for the
extra trip by the
installers.
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to top--
Can
I save money
by purchasing
a used pool table?
Well,
yes and no. Sometimes
a good quality
used pool table
becomes available
to the public. Most
often, the nicer
tables are sold
to relatives or
neighbors of the
original owners. Remember
that even if the
table is regulation
and good quality,
that on top of
the price you pay
for the table,
you will also have
the cost of having
it moved and usually
recovered. So,
that $1000 table
just became a $1300
to $1500 table. As
you look at used
tables, you will
want to know the
brand and model
of the table. If
that isn’t
available, key
features to find
out are:
- What
size is it? (measure
the playfield,
not the outside
dimensions)
- Is
it slate?
- Does
it have exterior
leather pockets
or interior plastic
pockets?
- Is
the table wood
or is it covered
in laminate?
- Does
it have 4 separate
legs or 2 panel
legs?
- If
it has 4 legs,
are they square,
tapered or carved?
- If
they are carved,
is it an intricate
carving or just
a “band-saw” cut?
- How
old is the cloth
and rail rubber?
If
you have the above
information, most
experienced billiard
dealers can give
you an idea of
the value of the
table. However,
these are just
the basics. Even
if the table looks
like wood, it could
be a thin veneer
over particleboard,
veneer over MDF,
veneer over ply
or actual solid
wood. Be
wary of the statement “all
wood”;
even particleboard
is wood!
Quite
often, the tables
which are available
cheaply were originally
purchased from
department stores
or larger “box” discount
stores. Most
billiard dealers
will not service
these tables. Only
consider these
tables if you don’t
care about quality
or regulation standards
and if they are
free.
So,
can you save money?
Yes. Could
you be spending
good money on a
bad table? Yes. Should
you purchase a
used table without
the help of a billiard
dealer? No.
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